Mongolian Shamans Cure Modern Ills, for a Price By DAN LEVIN
ULAN BATOR, MONGOLIA — Waving her cigarette impatiently, the shaman declared that she had just the cure for the man’s misfortunes. Two divorces and a business in the dumps? Yes, yes, she had heard it all before. But first she needed another drink.
She watched the man pour out the rest of the bottle’s golden liquid into her bowl and then took a pensive sip. Only then could she administer her instructions, thanks to the fluid’s mystical qualities.
“I could drink vodka, but my spirit prefers beer,” she said. “He’s angry, and always drunk.”
Enkhtuya, 47, who like most Mongolians goes by her given name, proceeded to tell the man to wash with vodka to clear out the bad energy. Then he was to throw slices of horse meat, his wet shirt and vodka into a pot of water and dispose of the concoction far from his home. This, she said, would banish the demon plaguing him.
Additional rituals included keeping salt and sugar in his pockets and pouring out a cup of vodka on his right side every day for a month.
“Don’t spill any of it on your body or the evil spirit will come back and bring more trouble to you,” she warned.
The man thanked her, handing over 1,000 togrog, about 70 cents, and left her tiny shack. He was quickly replaced by an elderly lady, the next in a long line of customers waiting outside.
Enkhtuya is among a growing number of shamans turning an ancient spiritual tradition into a booming business in Mongolia’s rapidly swelling capital, home to about a third of the country’s nearly three million people. Banned for 70 years under Communist rule, shamans are now protected by the state and have become a fixture of city life.
They are in high demand. Thousands of bureaucrats, laid-off factory workers and nomads who lost their flocks in the country’s stumble toward a market economy now crowd faded Soviet-style apartment blocks and tent districts looking for work, love and healing.
“In the old days people asked for rain,” said Chinbat, 30, an electrical engineer who recently finished training to become a shaman. “Today they ask for money.”
This revival, however, is fueling a challenge to age-old notions of spiritual power, as self-styled shamans with their own rituals and lore vie with the more traditional shamanistic authorities for believers’ faith — and cash.
Mongolian shamanism arose from the vast grasslands thousands of years before Buddhism arrived from Tibet in the 16th century. At its heart is a worship of nature and the spirits that rule mountains, rivers and the sky.
Over time, various communities emerged with their own deities, rituals and tools. Some shamans beat drums or play jaw harps to induce trances, while others foam at the mouth and speak in tongues when communing with the spirit world.
Yet deep in their tradition lies the shared belief that shamanistic abilities can be passed down through families, with spirits forcing their chosen oracles onto this spiritual path, often through illness or other personal crises that cannot be explained by science or cured by conventional medicine.
Chinbat discovered his calling during a visit to a shaman who told him that his father’s liver disease was a sign of his mystical destiny. At first he rejected the idea, but after his father died, Chinbat paid 500,000 togrog, or $350, for a week of training along with 11 other students. The sacred drum and robes cost extra. Now he says he can see visions and channel spirits during his vodka-soaked trances. He practices his craft from home and says he keeps these new abilities secret from most people. He also plans to keep his day job.
“The main role of shamanism is to protect your family, not to make money,” he said.
But these days, hundreds of Mongolians claiming to wield shamanistic powers have set up shop in Ulan Bator, where a steady stream of clients suffering from unemployment, illness or heartbreak are just a phone call or taxi ride away.
Claiming to be a shaman can bring prestige, fame and a livelihood, said Matyas Balogh, an assistant professor of Mongolian studies at Eotvos Lorand University in Budapest who has studied contemporary Mongolian shamanism. Some of these would-be spiritual healers and mediums invent their own rituals, he said, and are rejected as frauds by shamans who adhere to more traditional practices.
“Neo-shamans have nobody to learn from, so they just make it up,” he said.
Zorigtbaatar Banzar practices his own brand of magic in a round felt tent, or ger, that he calls the Center of Shaman and Eternal Heavenly Sophistication, which sits beside a karaoke bar at one of Ulan Bator’s busiest intersections. A potbellied, red-nosed man in his 50s, Zorigtbaatar says he first discovered his supernatural powers as a young soldier lost in the Gobi and then spent time in a mental hospital, he says, for telling others about his “gifts.”
Today he and his wife, who is also a shaman, have built a successful business based on the worship of Genghis Khan, the legendary Mongolian ruler who they say was the most powerful shaman of all. During their ceremonies, Zorigtbaatar channels Genghis Khan’s spirit for the benefit of the hundreds of believers they see each week.
The work, Zorigtbaatar says, is more important than that of the average shaman.
“We are close to the end of the world,” he said, pointing to a painting of the great Khan surrounded by a divine fire. “Mongolians today have lost their energy, their power, so they are lazy. I am sent by his spirit to help the people, not heal cancer or toothaches.”
Resplendent in a beaded crown and silk caftan draped with amulets, Zorigtbaatar beat his sheepskin drum and chanted incantations before an altar decorated with a stuffed bear head, Mongolian currency and a bottle of Gordon’s gin. Two dozen believers sat nearby clutching offerings of candy and cookies.
Then Zorigtbaatar led the faithful past a large eagle chained to a post and out into the parking lot toward a mound of horse skulls.
Straining to block out the blaring car horns as they focused on his drumming, they murmured prayers for prosperity and flicked drops of vodka into the air.
The ceremony ended with many of the attendees receiving a head massage from Zorigtbaatar before being sent home with a packet of sugar cubes for good luck.
Across town, Suhbat Shagdariin, president of the Golomt Center for Shamanism, an institute dedicated to preserving traditional shamanism, bristles when discussing the competing beliefs that have recently infiltrated Mongolian society, from the likes of Zorigtbaatar to Mormon and Catholic missionaries. Yet even his organization, which has trained more than 1,500 shamans since opening in 1996, has adapted to modernity. Many believers knock on the center’s door seeking financial advice, including two Mongolians who lost a fortune gambling in Las Vegas.
According to Suhbat, the pair returned to Las Vegas and quickly won $2 million applying the predictions of one of the center’s shamans — and a bit of technology.
“The shaman worked here,” Suhbat explained, holding up his cellphone, “but the spirits went there.”